El Brujo and the Señora de Cao:
Moche Archaeological Site in Northern Peru

🏺 El Brujo and the Lady of Cao

El Brujo is a major archaeological complex of the Moche culture, located about 60 km north of Trujillo in the Chicama Valley. This site is famous for the discovery of the Lady of Cao, the first female ruler identified in Peru's pre-Columbian history.

💡 Did you know? El Brujo is considered a Cultural Heritage of Peru and its occupation dates back more than 5000 years, making it one of the oldest and most important archaeological sites on Peru's northern coast.

🏺 A Sacred Moche Site of Great Importance

The complex consists of three large adobe pyramids:

  • Huaca Cao Viejo: The most impressive, with walls covered in polychrome murals and a ceremonial platform where the mummy of the Lady of Cao was found.
  • Huaca El Brujo (or Huaca Cortada): 22-meter high pyramid with walls decorated with fish motifs.
  • Huaca Prieta: One of the oldest sites in America, inhabited since 5000 BC, where cotton textiles over 4000 years old were discovered.

🧕 The Lady of Cao: A Revolutionary Discovery

Discovered in 2006, the Lady of Cao is a mummified woman dating from the 4th century AD, adorned with tattoos representing snakes, felines, and marine motifs. Buried with ceremonial attire, gold nose rings, and symbols of power, her presence in a sacred space demonstrated that women could access positions of power among the Moche, challenging previous assumptions about the society of that time.

🔄 Paradigm shift: Before this discovery, it was thought that only men held political power in Moche society. The Lady of Cao has become an emblem of female authority and spirituality in the pre-Columbian Andes.

📜 Site History and Chronology

12,500 BC

First human occupations at Huaca Prieta by nomadic hunter-gatherers.

5,000 BC

Development of agriculture and first constructions at Huaca Prieta.

100 - 800 AD

Peak of Moche culture at the site, construction of main huacas.

4th century AD

Burial of the Lady of Cao in Huaca Cao Viejo.

1860

First study of the site by investigator Antonio Raimondi.

2006

Discovery of the Lady of Cao's tomb.

2009

Inauguration of the Cao Museum.

🏛️ The Cao Museum

Inaugurated in 2009, the Cao Museum is modern and well-designed. It displays the mummy of the Lady of Cao and her ceremonial trousseau, as well as 3D reconstructions of her face. Its seven rooms present textiles, ceramics, ceremonial weapons, and explain the Moche worldview through interactive exhibitions.

📍 How to Get There

El Brujo is located in the district of Magdalena de Cao, Ascope province:

  • 🚗 From Trujillo (60 km / 1 hour by car): Take the Panamericana Norte to the Chocope turnoff, then continue to Magdalena de Cao. From there, 4 km to the complex entrance.
  • 🚌 By public transport: From Trujillo, take a bus to Chocope, then a collective to Magdalena de Cao and finally a mototaxi to the complex.
  • 🚐 From Chiclayo: About 3 hours travel to Chocope then the same local route.

🌤️ Climate and Best Time to Visit

The area has an arid and temperate climate year-round:

  • 🌡️ Daytime temperatures: 20-25°C
  • 🌙 Night temperatures: 14-17°C
  • 📅 Best period: April to November, with less heat and clear skies

🎟️ Practical Information

Visitor Type Price (Soles) Remarks
Adults (national and foreign) S/ 10.00 General admission
University students, seniors and teachers S/ 5.00 With valid ID
Children (school age) S/ 1.00
People with disabilities Free
First Sunday of the month Free For nationals only
  • 🕘 Opening hours: Daily from 9:00 to 16:00
  • 🏛️ Cao Site Museum: Visit included (single ticket for site+museum)
  • 🗣️ Official guides available at entrance, in Spanish, English or French depending on availability
  • 📷 Photos allowed without flash (restrictions possible in some museum rooms)

📱 Interactive Mobile Audio Guide

An interactive mobile audio guide is available on site: simply scan a QR code at the entrance to download the app on your phone (Android/iOS). It offers three routes (classic, mystical, specialized), with commentary in Spanish and English; some content is paid (about 5 soles).

🍽️ Local Gastronomy

In Magdalena de Cao and surrounding areas, you can enjoy northern Peruvian cuisine:

  • Cabrito con frejoles (goat with beans and rice)
  • Arroz con pato (duck rice)
  • Ceviches and sudados of fresh fish
  • Drinks like chicha de jora and traditional desserts

✅ Visit Tips

  • The museum is air-conditioned, but the outdoor site is in full sun: bring hat, sunscreen and water.
  • Avoid visiting at noon in summer, the heat is intense.
  • Ideal to combine with a day trip from Trujillo.
  • Always carry cash in soles for local transport and restaurants.
  • Respect site rules: do not touch the reliefs and do not enter restricted areas.
  • Take advantage of free Sundays, but arrive early to avoid crowds.
  • Ideal to combine with other Moche destinations (Huacas del Sol y de la Luna, Chan Chan).

🏨 Recommended Accommodation

  • In Trujillo: 3 to 5 star hotels in the historic center; boutique options near Plaza de Armas.
  • In Huanchaco: Hostels and hotels facing the sea, ideal for combining archaeology and beach.
  • In Magdalena de Cao: Basic accommodations, suitable for those who want to sleep near the complex.

🗺️ Suggested Itinerary from Trujillo (1 day)

You can propose this complete itinerary to one of Trujillo's local agencies to organize your excursion:

  • 🕣 08:30 - Departure from Trujillo towards El Brujo via the coastal road of Huanchaco (about 1h20 travel)
  • 🛖 10:00 - Stop at Magdalena de Cao village to discover its history and local traditions, with visit to a craft workshop and tasting of traditional drinks
  • 🏛️ 11:00 - Exploration of El Brujo archaeological complex, starting with the Lady of Cao Museum and its exceptional funerary treasures
  • 🧱 12:30 - Visit to Huaca Cao and discovery of its polychrome murals and Moche ceremonial architecture
  • 🍽️ 13:30 - Lunch break in Magdalena de Cao to enjoy typical regional gastronomy
  • 🏖️ 15:00 - Continue to Puerto Malabrigo for relaxation by the Pacific Ocean
  • 🕡 18:00 - Return to Trujillo and end of excursion at the central square

🏺 Explore Trujillo's Treasures

Discover all the archaeological and cultural wonders that the Trujillo region has to offer you

Peru Travel Guide 2025 - Tips by Peru Discovery