Cusco, Peru
Complete Guide to the Imperial City of the Incas

Cusco, known by its Quechua name "Qosqo" meaning "navel of the world", is a city rich in history and symbolism. Perched at 3,400 meters altitude in the Peruvian Andes, this imperial city was the heart of the Inca Empire before becoming a colonial jewel.

Demographics and Location

With its 430,000 inhabitants, it combines urban dynamism with ancestral traditions. Located in southeastern Peru, Cusco is the country's historical capital and the gateway to Machu Picchu.

Climate

Its subtropical mountain climate alternates between:

• Dry season (April to October): Ideal for visits with sunny days and cool nights
• Wet season (November to March): Marked by frequent rains and milder temperatures

Economy

The local economy rests on three pillars:

• Tourism: Drawn by the legendary Machu Picchu and archaeological sites of the Sacred Valley
• Andean agriculture: Cultivation of corn, quinoa and native potatoes
• Renowned craftsmanship: Handwoven textiles, silver jewelry and traditional ceramics

Heritage and Gastronomy

The city charms with:

• Its historical monuments: Sacsayhuamán fortress, colorful San Pedro market
• Its unique gastronomy: Roasted cuy (guinea pig), chicha morada (purple corn drink), pachamanca
• Its living traditions: Colorful festivals, Andean music, ancestral rites

Strategic Position

Gateway to the Sacred Valley and its major archaeological sites, Cusco remains the living guardian of a culture blending pre-Columbian influences and Spanish heritage, all set in spectacular natural surroundings.

History

1. Pre-Columbian Era

• Capital of the Inca Empire: Founded in the 12th century by Manco Cápac, Cusco became the political, religious and cultural center of Tahuantinsuyo (Empire of the Four Regions)
• Sacred urban design: The city was shaped like a puma, featuring:
  • The Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun)
  • Fortresses like Sacsayhuamán

2. Spanish Conquest (1533)

• Destruction and reconstruction: The Spanish razed Inca temples to build:
  • Colonial churches
  • Palaces like the Cusco Cathedral on Qorikancha's foundations
• Cultural syncretism: Unique blend of:
  • Architectural techniques (Inca stonework + Baroque style)
  • Religions (worship of apus integrated into Catholicism)

3. Modern Era

• Rediscovery of Machu Picchu (1911): Explorer Hiram Bingham revealed the citadel to the world, renewing interest in Inca heritage
• UNESCO World Heritage: Cusco designated in 1983 for its "unique mixture of Inca and colonial cultures"

Culture

1. Living Traditions

• Inti Raymi (June 24): Reenacted Inca Sun Festival with dances, processions and rituals at Sacsayhuamán
• Señor de los Temblores (Holy Monday): Procession of the "Black Christ", symbolic protector against earthquakes
• Qoyllur Rit'i (May-June): Pilgrimage honoring sacred glaciers, blending pagan and Christian rites

2. Handicrafts

• Andean textiles: Ancient weaving techniques (backstrap loom) using Inca geometric patterns (tocapus)
• Ceramics: Replicas of Inca aryballos vessels and colonial pieces
• Silver filigree: Jewelry inspired by solar and lunar symbols

3. Gastronomy

• Inca-Spanish fusion: Typical dishes like:
  • Chuño cola (soup made with freeze-dried potatoes)
  • Chairo (meat and vegetable stew)
• Iconic markets:
  • San Pedro for spices and local products
  • San Blas for bohemian crafts

4. Beliefs and Spirituality

• Pachamama (Mother Earth): Offerings of coca leaves, chicha or food during rituals
• Apus: Veneration of sacred mountains like Ausangate or Salkantay

1. Cusco: The City and Its Must-Sees

Plaza de Armas

• Historic heart: Surrounded by:
  • The Colonial Cathedral (works of the Cusco School)
  • The Church of la Compañía de Jesús
• Carved wooden balconies: Typical colonial architecture

Qorikancha

• Inca Temple of the Sun: Inca foundations covered by the Santo Domingo convent
• Must-see:
  • The perfection of the stone walls
  • The sacred garden

Sacsayhuamán

• Cyclopean fortress: Stones weighing over 100 tons
• Site of Inti Raymi (Sun Festival)
• Panoramic view of Cusco

San Blas

• Bohemian quarter:
  • Artisan workshops
  • Art galleries
  • San Blas Church (pulpit carved from a single tree trunk)

San Pedro Market

• Sensory experience:
  • Exotic fruits
  • Andean cheeses
  • Medicinal herbs
  • Chicharrón (fried pork)

Must-Visit Museums

• Museum of Pre-Columbian Art (MAP): Jewelry, ceramics and sacred Inca objects in a former colonial palace
• Inca Museum: Complete archaeological collection about Inca civilization, located near Plaza de Armas
• Machu Picchu Museum (Casa Concha): Original artifacts brought back by Hiram Bingham

2. Must-See Sites Nearby

Sacred Valley

• Pisac:
  • Artisan market (Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday) and Inca terraces
  • Inca cemetery: Necropolis carved into cliffs
• Ollantaytambo:
  • Intact Inca fortress and village: Gateway to the Inca Trail
• Moray:
  • Inca agricultural laboratory: Circular terraces for crop experiments
• Maras Salt Mines:
  • Pre-Inca salt pans: 3,000 stepped pools still in use

Machu Picchu

• Classic visit:
  • Train access (2h from Ollantaytambo)
  • Or trek (Inca Trail, Salkantay)
• Huayna Picchu Mountain: Vertiginous hike for aerial views (reservation required)
• Alternative: Machu Picchu Mountain (less crowded, citadel views)

3. Lesser-Known Sites and Off-the-Beaten-Path Adventures

Chonta Canyon (3h from Cusco)

• Condor watching: Natural viewpoint at 3,200m, condors flying in late afternoon
• Hike: 4km trail with views of Apurímac Canyon
• Access: Visit with local agency (ecotourism circuits)

Waqra Pukará (4h from Cusco)

• Horn-shaped fortress: Isolated Inca archaeological site at 4,300m
• Hike: 2h walk from Chuquicahuana village
• Tip: Hire a local guide for historical explanations

Choquequirao (4-day trek)

• "Sister of Machu Picchu": Inca citadel accessible only on foot (60km round trip)
• Challenge: Demanding but uncrowded trek through wild landscapes

Huchuy Qosqo (2-day trek)

• Inca ruins: Ancient royal palace with granaries and terraces, Sacred Valley views

Humantay Lake (3h from Cusco)

• Turquoise glacial lake: 2h hike from Soraypampa (4,200m altitude)
• Combine with Salkantay trek to avoid crowds

Huilloc (Willoq)

• Traditional Quechua village: 1h30 from Cusco, colorful costumes and ancestral weaving techniques
• Immersive experience:
  • Share a meal with locals
  • Participate in potato farming
  • Learn weaving with natural dyes
• Access: Day trip combined with Patacancha and Kinsa Cocha lagoon

Pumamarca

• Forgotten Inca ruins: 1h walk from Ollantaytambo
• Peaceful hike: Less crowded alternative

Ankashmarka (Ancasmarca)

• Enigmatic archaeological site: Inca fortress near Calca
• Panoramic view: Overlooks Urubamba valley
• Access: Guided tour from Cusco or Calca

Lares Valley

• Lares Trek (3-4 days):
  • Authentic alternative to Inca Trail
  • Through Quechua villages and natural hot springs
  • Encounters with llama herders and weavers
• Lares Hot Springs: Relax in natural pools

Ccochahuasi Animal Sanctuary

• Rescue center: Andean animals (condors, llamas, pumas)
• Demonstrations: Traditional weaving and natural dyes

Palccoyo Rainbow Mountains

• Alternative to Vinicunca: Less crowded site with three multicolored mountains
• Easy walk: 1h hike, guaranteed lunar landscapes

4. Other Hidden Treasures

Tipón

• Inca water gardens: Sophisticated irrigation system dedicated to water worship

Andahuaylillas

• "Sistine Chapel of the Andes": Colonial church with baroque frescoes and golden ceilings

5. Adventures in the Deep Andes

Ausangate Trek (6-7 days)

• Sacred mountain: Circuit around Nevado Ausangate (6,384m)
• Colored lakes: Rainbow Mountain alternative
• Encounters: Quechua llama herding communities

Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca)

• Day trip: Can be crowded in high season
• Alternative: Palccoyo Rainbow Mountain (less touristy)

Suykutambo Canyon (5h from Cusco)

• "Peruvian Grand Canyon": Desert landscapes and whitewater rafting

6. Living Culture and Unique Experiences

Q'eswachaka (3h from Cusco)

• Inca rope bridge: Rebuilt every June by local communities
• Visits possible outside reconstruction period (10 soles entry)

Chinchero Community

• Traditional weaving: Participatory workshops with natural dyes

Lake Titicaca (extension)

• From Cusco: 6h bus to Puno
• Discover: Uros Islands (totora reed) and Taquile (UNESCO textiles)

Inkariy Museum

• Hidden gem: Located in Sacred Valley between Calca and Urubamba
• Immersive experience: Reconstruction of pre-Inca civilizations (Chavín, Moche, Nazca...)

Tips for Exploring These Sites

• Local guides: Prefer agencies working with communities (responsible tourism)
• Transport: Private van rentals or organized tours from Cusco
• Equipment:
  • Hiking shoes
  • Windbreaker
  • Headlamp for isolated treks

Local Specialties

• Cuy al horno: Whole roasted guinea pig, often served with Andean potatoes and a spicy sauce
• Rocoto relleno: Stuffed red pepper with ground meat, cheese, olives, and eggs, baked in the oven
• Chiriuchu: A cold dish typical of Corpus Christi, mixing meats, dried seaweed, cheese, and corn tortilla
• Tamales cusqueños: Corn dough wrapped in leaves, filled with meat or cheese
• Comforting Soups:
  • Chairo (llama meat stew)
  • Chuño cola (made with dehydrated potatoes)
• Beverages:
  • Chicha morada (fermented purple corn drink)
  • Emoliente (herbal infusion)
  • Mate de coca (for altitude sickness)

Where to Taste

1. Traditional Markets

• Central Markets: Stalls offering typical dishes at low prices (5-15 soles)
  • Try sánguches (grilled pork sandwiches)
  • Or humitas (corn dough wrapped in leaves)
• Soup Sections: Ideal for a quick and hearty lunch

2. Picanterías

• Family-run restaurants: Rustic setting to discover Andean slow-cooked cuisine (stews, grilled meats)
• Daily Menus: Full meal (starter, main course, drink) for 15-30 soles

3. Street Stalls

• Anticuchos: Marinated beef heart skewers, grilled and served with potatoes
• Choclo con queso: Giant corn cobs served with fresh cheese

4. Gastronomic Experiences

• Pachamanca: Ceremonial dish cooked underground with hot stones
  • Some rural communities offer demonstrations
• Cooking Workshops: Learn to prepare local dishes with chefs or families

5. Vegetarian/Vegan Options

• Dishes with quinoa or kiwicha: Salads, soups, or croquettes
• Andean Vegetables:
  • Olluco
  • Mashua
  • Oca (local tubers)

Practical Tips

• Hygiene:
  • Prefer places frequented by locals
  • Avoid unwashed raw vegetables
• Budget:
  • Economical: 10-25 soles (markets, street stalls)
  • Mid-range: 30-60 soles (traditional restaurants)
  • High-end: 70-150 soles (fusion cuisine or tourist establishments)
• Meal Times:
  • Lunch: 1 PM - 3 PM (best deals on set menus)
  • Dinner: 7 PM - 10 PM (reservation recommended during high season)

Varied Atmospheres

• Colonial Setting: Some establishments are in historic buildings with courtyards and wooden balconies
• Panoramic Terraces: Enjoy views over Cusco’s rooftops or surrounding mountains
• Pisco Bars: Try cocktails like pisco sour or chilcano in a lively atmosphere

Types of Accommodation

1. Backpacker Hostels

• Friendly Atmosphere: Shared dorms or simple private rooms, ideal for travelers looking to meet people.
• Services:
  • Shared kitchen
  • Common lounge area
  • Sometimes organizes excursions
• Budget:
  • 25-60 soles/night (dorms)
  • 70-120 soles/night (private rooms)

2. Mid-Range Hotels

• Colonial Comfort: Restored mansions with flowered patios and stone walls.
• Services:
  • Breakfast included
  • Wi-Fi
  • Sometimes includes spa or panoramic terrace
  • Heating (essential for cold nights)
• Budget: 150-350 soles/night

3. High-End Hotels

• Andean Luxury: Boutique hotels with indoor pools and fine dining restaurants.
• Services:
  • Airport transfers
  • Private guides
  • Cultural activities (weaving workshops, pisco tastings)
  • Mountain views
• Budget: 400-1,000 soles/night

4. Eco-Lodges and Sustainable Stays

• Nature Immersion: Located on the outskirts of Cusco or in the Sacred Valley.
• Features:
  • Solar energy
  • Local materials
  • Community support
• Experience: Peaceful nights, connection with Andean landscapes.
• Budget: 200-500 soles/night

5. Homestays

• Cultural Authenticity: Stay in villages like Chinchero or Huilloc.
• Services:
  • Homemade meals
  • Weaving or farming demonstrations
• Budget: 50-100 soles/night (often includes meals)

Recommended Areas

• Historic Center:
  • Close to major landmarks (Plaza de Armas, Qorikancha)
  • Lively and touristy area
• San Blas:
  • Picturesque and bohemian neighborhood
  • Ideal for art lovers and a quieter stay
• Sacred Valley:
  • Avoids the hustle of Cusco
  • Near sites like Pisac and Ollantaytambo
• Near Sacsayhuamán:
  • Stunning panoramic views
  • Quick access to hiking trails

Practical Tips

• Book in Advance:
  • Essential during peak season (June to August)
  • Especially for budget accommodations
• Altitude Considerations:
  • Choose hotels offering oxygen or coca tea
  • Avoid rooms without heating (nights can drop to 0°C)
• Location:
  • Stay within a 15-minute walk of Plaza de Armas
  • To avoid tiring uphill walks
• Safety:
  • Check for safes for valuables
  • Avoid isolated streets at night

1. Health and Acclimatization

Altitude Adjustment

• Spend 24/48 hours in Cusco before any intense activity
• Drink mate de coca and stay well-hydrated
• Avoid alcohol and heavy meals for the first few days

Health Precautions

• Only drink sealed bottled water
• Avoid ice cubes and unwashed raw vegetables
• Bring motion sickness medicine for winding roads

2. Transportation

From Lima

• Plane (1h20): Book early for the best prices
• Night bus (20h): Choose safe and comfortable companies

Getting Around

• Taxis: Always negotiate the price beforehand (5-10 soles in town)
• Colectivos: Affordable for Sacred Valley (departing from Puputi Street)
• Car rental: Convenient but avoid driving at night (dangerous roads)

3. Tickets and Reservations

• Boleto Turístico (130 soles):
  • Access to 16 sites, including Sacsayhuamán, Pisac
  • Purchase at COSITUC (Av. El Sol)
• Machu Picchu: Book 2-3 months in advance at machupicchu.gob.pe
• Treks:
  • Inca Trail: Book 6 months in advance
  • Choquequirao: Guide recommended due to unmarked trails

4. Budget and Savings

Food

• Local markets (menús for 8-15 soles)
• Picanterías (full meals 20-40 soles)

Accommodation

• Hostels from 30 soles/night in the city center

Tips

• Claro/Movistar SIM card (10-30 soles for 5GB)
• Avoid uncertified agencies (check DIRCETUR license)

5. Safety

Pickpockets

• Be vigilant in markets and crowded places
• Prefer anti-theft bags

Hiking

• Never hike alone without informing your hotel
• Guides required for remote treks

Scams

• Fake bills (check 50/100 soles)
• Unofficial "guides" with extremely low prices

6. Culture and Local Respect

Photography

• Always ask before taking pictures of locals

Sacred Sites

• Do not touch offerings (coca leaves, alcohol)
• Respect apachetas (Andean cairns). These sacred stone piles, offerings to Pachamama, mark mountain passes. Observe them without touching - each stone tells a prayer or an ancestral gratitude.

7. Eco-Responsibility

Waste

• Carry a reusable bag (few trash bins on treks)

Handicrafts

• Buy directly from producers
• Refuse items made from protected species

Accommodation

• Choose eco-friendly lodges

8. Emergencies

Before your trip, check your embassy's website for emergency contacts in Cusco. Local numbers (such as the tourist police) may change, so verify them with your hotel or the tourist office upon arrival.

• Regional Hospital: Av. de la Cultura